Two to Try: Field Guide

In May, the Michelin Guide announced that for the first time, they would cover restaurants all over the state of Florida. Two Tallahassee restaurants that opened four years ago and one mile apart were added to the list for their different cuisines that highlight their seasonal menus.

The Huntsman

If it wasn’t for the valet and sign out front, The Huntsman could almost go unnoticed off East Tennessee and North Gadsden streets. “It’s unassuming,” owner Daniel Renninger says while sharing a bottle of Rondinella during a hefty late lunch.

The outside of the building is akin to a duck blind. That analogy works well with the gamey offerings of the restaurant, which include antelope, elk, deer, and of course, duck.

Yaji-crusted redfish, stewed okra, West African peanut sauce, rice middlins, and blue crab hush puppies. Photo by Dave Barfield

“Essentially, we’re a steakhouse,” he says, but with a multitude of options and global flavors ranging from West Africa to Japan, Thailand to Germany, to meet Tallahassee’s echoing diversity.

But one will experience something different when walking into The Huntsman—different than other restaurants, and much different from the image of a lumber-heavy hideaway in squawky Florida marshes. Fourteen marble tables with black leather chairs—topped with stemless wine glasses filled with winter wheat and candlelight—are framed by green tile, wood paneling, ivory paint, and exposed brick. Renninger simply says he and his mother designed the space the way they liked.

Ahi tuna tataki with house-made Worcestershire and green tomato chow chow, photo by Dave Barfield

Some of the standout appetizers: Ahi Tuna Tataki with house-made garum, pickled okra, green tomato chow chow with a roasted garlic aioli (the savory notes in the aioli balanced the green tomato and pickled okra); then, sous vide and charred octopus with salsa verde, saffron aioli, chorizo, and paprika potatoes.

Renninger also shares stunning West African-influenced yaji-crusted redfish with stewed okra, peanut sauce, and blue crab hushpuppies, and pineapple chamoy-glazed pork chops, yam and leek puree, with Brussels sprouts. For dessert: vegan tres leches cake.

Vegan tres leches cake with caramelized pineapple, coconut, and whipped cream. Photo by Dave Barfield

Renninger and head chef and partner Skylar Stafford have worked together for years—Renninger depends on Stafford and the staff to collaborate on those big ideas and bring them to the plate. He speaks highly of the fun they have creating dishes. That practice hasn’t changed a bit since receiving recognition from the Michelin Guide.

“We’re very happy where we’re at but are by no means done,” he says.

Those sentiments are shared roughly a mile away in the heart of Midtown by the head chef of another Tallahassee restaurant.

The Huntsman is located at 320 E. Tennessee Street. Open Monday through Thursday from 5–11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight huntsmanrestaurants.com

Black Radish Bar & Restaurant

Photo by Pablo Gabes

Black Radish head chef and co-owner Matthew Swezey is all about the food and the experience. His main concern is to make sure people come through the doors and leave happy.

That number of people has increased as of late. Forty-five minutes after opening on a Wednesday in summer, the restaurant—which seats just under 100 people—is nearly full.

Squid ink spaghetti plays nicely with shrimp and summer tomatoes in a cherry pepper butter sauce. Photo by Pablo Gabes

“We’re doing our normal weekend numbers on the weekdays now, so it’s been good,” Swezey says. “I don’t think Michelin has been something people thought about for Tallahassee … it was really cool to be a part of.”

Swezey shares a plate of burrata donned with salsa macha (a Mexican version of chili crisp) and hidden by fresh Georgia peach slices, peach balsamic vinegar, plus mint and basil.

It’s a balancing act of fresh soft cheese, sweet and tart peaches, with subtle spice.

The menu at Black Radish changes with the seasons. Autumnal offerings include Thai Rainbow Salad, Shaved Cauliflower Salad, Gemelli with Mushroom Bolognese, Miso Glazed Brussel Sprouts, Pumpkin Spiced Tiramisu,
and more. Photo by Pablo Gabes

When one walks into the Black Radish, they’ll notice an open kitchen and open layout for diners. Around the corner is a concrete bar with seating, sprouting ferns, and shou sugi ban planks hand-selected for siding. The restaurant was built together with Swezey and his partner, Jesse Edmunds.

The restaurant feels casual, and that’s intentional. Sharing plates is encouraged here, Swezey says. That’s the best way to try more options.

“Ideally, you find what you love, and you come back for it, and you get to experience more than just one or two dishes.”

One misconception is that Black Radish is solely a vegetarian restaurant. It’s veggie-forward, but it’s also a place for superb meat options.

This is apparent in the squid ink spaghetti with shrimp and summer tomatoes in a cherry pepper butter sauce with lemon zest and garlic breadcrumbs. Light, salty, and satiating, it’s worth savoring along with a glass of organic orange wine.

Black Radish Bar & Restaurant is located at 1304 N. Monroe Street. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 5–10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. blackradishtlh.com

Get the Nod

Securing a position in the Michelin Guide begins long before the deciding meal is served. Michelin researchers dive into local dining scenes then dispatch anonymous inspectors to visit restaurants—often multiple times—under assumed names. These inspectors, gastronomic experts themselves, assess the food using five criteria: ingredient quality, culinary technique, harmony of flavor, consistency, and how the chef’s personality is expressed through the cuisine. Inspectors document their visits and make selections collaboratively, choosing restaurants for the Guide based purely on their experiences—not paid promotion. Like The Huntsman and Black Radish, restaurants can hold a place in the guide without having a Michelin star.