Live Like An Icelander

Some trips are mere vacations, while others invite you into a different way of life. This is the case, if you let it be, when you visit Hotel Rangá (hotelranga.is) on Iceland’s southern coast.

Tucked between active volcanoes and glacial rivers, this remote retreat is more than a jumping-off point for hiking ice caves and chasing waterfalls: It celebrates Icelandic culture both ancient and modern. Here, indulge in hot springs, cold plunges, and activities pulled from the pages of a Norse saga.

Photos Courtesy of HOTEL RANGÁ / TOM STAHL

Ninety minutes from Reykjavík, Hotel Rangá is a cozy lodge nestled into a cinematic stretch of moonscape near Hella. Its continent-themed suites span Antarctica to Africa, while geothermal hot tubs and an on-site stargazing observatory align guests with the rhythm of the Icelandic countryside. Local artwork is highlighted throughout, even painted directly onto the walls. In season (typically late September to early April), it’s one of the best places to view the Northern Lights; the hotel has a dedicated wake-up call button you can engage should the luminary phenomenon appear while you’re sleeping.

Owned by Icelanders, Hotel Rangá is the ideal place to try on their longevity-boosting lifestyle. Jump-start your day with an icy dip into the Rangá River. Dine on protein-packed fresh skyr, and throw back a shot of cod liver oil (the mega-dose of omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins A and D is an Icelandic health hack, benefiting heart, brain, bones, and eyes), then embark on any number of on- and off-property excursions the hotel can arrange.

Photo by INGIBJÖRG FRIÐRIKSDÓTTIR : @INKI.MUSIC

Perhaps you visit Skeiðvellir’s Icelandic Horseworld (iceworld.is) to ride a five-gaited, famously stocky Icelandic horse. They’ve been purebred in isolation since the Viking days, illustrating the island’s deep reverence for tradition. (Just don’t call them ponies.)

Or let Southcoast Adventure (southadventure.is) whisk you into the wilds for a day. Strap on crampons to hike the otherworldly Mýrdalsjökull glacier. Afterward, tread the famous black-sand beach and basalt rock formations of Reynisfjara, then feel the thunderous roar of screensaver-worthy waterfalls like Skógafoss, Seljalandsfoss, and Gljúfrabúi. Or book a buggy tour to rev things up on tundra-sand fields, and see Gluggafoss waterfall in all its glory.

Refuel at Smiðjan Brugghús (smidjanbrugghus.is), a brewpub in Vík known for juicy burgers and small-batch beers. The hotel’s Rangá Restaurant also serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner grounded in fine, locally sourced Nordic fare.

Photo by MARKETA KALVACHOVA

For a cultural deep dive, ask Hilmar from Try Adventure (tryadventure.is) to tour you around turf houses, waterfalls, fabled fountains of youth, and Arctic moss fields made for nature-napping. He’ll also cook you Icelandic hot dogs—with sweet brown mustard, ketchup, remoulade, and onions both crispy and raw—next to a river on his family’s ancestral lands.

The nearby ancient Caves of Hella (cavesofhella.is) present an unforgettable setting for dinner, a Hotel Rangá exclusive. Inside a series of mysterious sandstone caves—potentially carved by the Celts who inhabited Iceland even before the official Norse settlement of the ninth century—you’ll be served a multicourse Nordic feast by candlelight, a Viking banquet for modern times (read: lamb shanks minus the pillaging).

Back at the hotel, the curated-experience menu presents further immersion opportunities. Book a beer tasting (Icelandic brews paired with bites like lamb rillette ravioli and smoked duck breast with blood orange and brioche) or take part in offbeat offerings like a tattoo from a local artist, a poetry hotline, or a book signed by a local author, a nod to the Icelandic tradition of Jólabókaflóð (the Christmastime “book flood”).

Photos Courtesy of HOTEL RANGÁ : @PAIGEDEAS

It may seem odd to order a souvenir in advance, but you’ll be glad you did. With at least four weeks’ notice, Hotel Rangá can arrange a personalized lopapeysa to be knitted by hand and awaiting your arrival. These wool sweaters are practically the national uniform; patterns are family heirlooms passed down over generations. At Hotel Rangá, the design is based on the original motif by the mother of owner Friðrik Pálsson, who grew up on a farm in northern Iceland.

While toasting the traditional way—hákarl (pungently ammonia-forward fermented shark) chased by a shot of brennivín (aptly nicknamed “Black Death”)—may be best left to the locals, should you give yourself over to Iceland, you’ll soon find yourself saying “Skál!” to the Land of Fire and Ice.

Extra Expedition

Reset at the head or tail of your trip with a night at the 60-suite Retreat at Blue Lagoon Iceland, located less than a half-hour from the Keflavík International Airport. The ultramodern pad has a subterranean spa, Michelin-starred dining, and private access to Iceland’s most famous attraction. A day or two in squeaky-clean, progressively green Reykjavík is also worth your while. (bluelagoon.com)