Wine And Wonder

Driving through an allée of deep-rooted trees into Meadowood, the sprawling 250-acre wine country estate in St. Helena, California, you get a snapshot of everything that makes Napa Valley so iconic: nature at its lushest, rustic charm, the pace of country life, and—not insignificantly—the promise of exquisite wine and food.

Meadowood has been a bastion in this part of the valley since 1961 (and under the ownership of visionary vintner and former real estate developer Bill Harlan since 1979), and in its 64-year history, it has evolved into an ultra-private retreat in the woods, where guests and members can partake in sporting and wellness activities, hikes through the heart of wine country, wine tastings and education, and innovative American cuisine. Quiet and bucolic, it’s a detox from city life and a way to reconnect with nature.

Photos COURTESY OF THE NAPA VALLEY RESERVE

Built into verdant hillsides, the rooms and suites are designed to look like an extension of the wooded surroundings. Expansive windows admit views of the tree line, and thanks to plenty of space between suites, you feel like you’re alone in the woods. To get the full effect, throw open the French doors, step out onto the terrace, and sit by the firepit, preferably with a glass of wine, while listening to the canopy creak and whistle. If your goal is a full reset, this is a good start.

A day at the Meadowood Spa doesn’t hurt, either. Nestled high on the hillside, this tree house–like zen den imparts a feeling of seclusion while you indulge in treatments that utilize local botanicals and grape-derived nutrients. The can’t-miss experience here is the Tree House Retreat, a private suite with a copper tub, fireplace, and an intriguing menu of baths. The mustard bath, in particular, is wonderful for shedding toxins and allowing the body to heal from pain, stress, and congestion.

Photo courtesy THE CHARTER OAK / KELLY PULEIO PHOTOGRAPHY

Most people come to Napa Valley for the wine—not only to taste but also to learn more about the grape-to-glass process and different varietals. At Meadowood’s Wine Center, educators teach the nuances of wine and viticulture through guided winery tours, vertical and blind tastings, and various classes, including one on winemaking for those who get the bug after an immersive visit here.

If the Wine Center is an introduction to winemaking, The Napa Valley Reserve (thenapavalleyreserve.com) is the master class. Founded by vintner William Harlan of Harlan Estate Winery and located near Meadowood, the members-only winegrowing estate yields exceptional small-batch wines that are available exclusively to members. Importantly, wine is produced under the watchful eye of the Harlan family viticultural team—the same people behind superb wines like Harlan Estate. Members may also make their own custom blends, participating in every part of the process from the harvesting of the grapes to designing their own labels. The facility is ultra-private, but those who have access rave about the beauty of the grounds and the camaraderie among members, all of whom join by invitation and share similar values about the land, tradition, family, and of course, wine.

Photos courtesy of MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY / Paul Lange

These days, Meadowood is operating with only 36 rooms and suites due to damage from the Glass Fire that tore through the valley in 2020. While its famous amenities and hospitality remain robust, some closures were necessary. The most conspicuous of these is Meadowood’s three-Michelin-star restaurant, which was claimed by the fires to the profound dismay of the nation’s foodie community. The current restaurant, Forum, is not an attempt to replace what was lost but rather a solid all-day dining establishment that delivers contemporary California cuisine that changes with the seasons. On a recent visit during the mustard bloom, chef Ale Ayala’s specials revolved around mustard greens and flowers, while the spring menu incorporated all the young vegetables of the season.

Christopher Kostow, the chef who shepherded The Restaurant at Meadowood to three-star fame, is not flexing his culinary muscle on property at the moment, but it’s possible to sample his cuisine at The Charter Oak in St. Helena (thecharteroak.com). The Charter Oak menu is as inventive as you’d expect from Kostow, who focuses on seasonal, local ingredients to craft such delicacies as pork jowl skewers with pestled wild mustards and sunchoke tostones. In the cooler months, The Charter Oak opens its heated dining yurts—a special experience not to be missed.

Photos courtesy of MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY

Will The Restaurant at Meadowood come back? While one cannot step into the same river twice, future construction will certainly include a signature restaurant with cuisine worthy of the Meadowood name. The details are yet to be revealed, but we’re already salivating at the prospect. (meadowood.com)