Florida Spores

The heart of Tallahassee is where many local restaurants acquire the best mushrooms nature has to offer—not from a forest, not from a large manufacturing plant, but from a flourishing mushroom farm named Play of Sunlight. You may have passed by their South Monroe warehouse without knowing.  

Play of Sunlight began with music and happenstance. Founded by musicians Josh Saul and Tyler Lee, this farm first turned their foraging hobby into a business in 2014. As the restaurant demand for local mushrooms increased, Play of Sunlight transitioned to growing instead of foraging. By 2020, operations expanded from growing mushrooms in buckets to taking over an entire warehouse, and their methods of crop cultivation diversified. Today, co-owned by Josh Saul and Kyle Jackson, Play of Sunlight continues to grow as if it were a giant mushroom itself.

“Indoor mushroom farming is one huge puzzle,” says Jackson. “Relative to other farming, it’s a young industry with more conjecture than answers. Even a small farm needs adaptable systems for growing an organism that takes months to finish.

Photos Courtesy of Play of Sunlight

“Today, we’re growing nearly 10 times what we did in 2020.” 

The close-knit mushroom cultivation team supplies many local restaurants in North and Central Florida. “Supporting them supports us,” Jackson says. The farm also offers workshops and events open to the public. 

They also sell directly to locals at the Tallahassee Farmers Market and Community Co-op Market. Anyone, even the most inexperienced of cooks, can have the opportunity at acquiring and preparing some delicious gourmet fungi. 

“Always cook your mushrooms,” says Jackson. “There’s such a wide variety of flavors, textures, and forgiving ways to cook that most people are missing out on.”  

Photos Courtesy of Play of Sunlight

A BOUQUET OF FUNGI

Of the mushrooms found in Play of Sunlight’s bounty, here are a few favorites to enhance your next culinary adventure. 

Lion’s Mane 

Known for health benefits like memory and focus improvements, this unique mushroom’s spongy texture and round shape almost resemble a brain. Lion’s mane, given its density and size, can be easily prepared like a steak or portobello. 

Pioppino 

Pioppino is a thin, lengthy mushroom with a carmelly top and a crunchy texture. Jackson says this mushroom’s unique earthy flavor shines when roasted in clusters: “Leave them intact or break
in two, coat liberally in oil, salt and pepper, and roast
at 420 degrees Fahrenheit
for 20 minutes or until browned and golden.” 

Blue Oyster

The blue oyster mushroom is a favorite among vegetarian and vegan chefs. Its texture is meaty, required cooking methods are simple, and it works in just about any dish. Play of Sunlight recommends deep frying.

Photos Courtesy of Play of Sunlight

Roasted Mushroom Compound Butter

Play of Sunlight also has a plethora of recipes listed on their website, which can help spark ideas of new ways to prepare mushrooms in your kitchen. 

Ingredients: 

1 cup coarsely chopped  or shredded mushrooms; I used maitake

1 tbsp. olive oil

Pinch of kosher salt

1 stick of unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tbsp. fresh chopped herbs, such as parsley, chives

Instructions:

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Spread the mushrooms evenly across a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil and salt. Roast for about 10-15 minutes or until soft. Allow to cool completely. In a large food processor, add the butter and mushrooms. Process until light and fluffy. Add in the herbs; pulse until combined. If not using immediately, store in parchment paper or plastic wrap. Tightly seal and store in the refrigerator.