Capital Holiday with a Florida Flair

Josh Butler, Chef to Gov. Charlie Crist, Passes Along Some of His Favorite Dishes to Help Make Your Holiday Buffet a Success

By Linda Kleindienst

After cooking 15 turkeys for Thanksgiving, you’d think Josh Butler would need a break. But there’s no time for that. Christmas is coming, along with a nearly endless stream of holiday parties.

BUFFET READY Governor’s Mansion Chef Josh Butler knows how to prepare food for a holiday party. Shown is an array of foodstuffs you can re-create for your celebrations at home. Photo by Scott Holstein

“December is always one of the busiest months,” says Butler, executive chef at the Florida Governor’s Mansion. By the time the entertaining is done, he laughingly admits he has recurring dreams of cookies throwing chocolate chips at his head.

With its fresh evergreen wreaths and garlands, the inviting aroma of baked cookies and brightly decorated Christmas trees, the Governor’s Mansion is a holiday season delight for all the senses.

“There’s a lot of twinkle and shine, lots of cherub faces and a lot of hustle and bustle,” Butler says. “We like to make sure that when everyone leaves they’re happy, full and smiling. The mansion creates an aura of ‘Christmasness.’”

About 1,500 guests — from friends and family of Gov. Charlie Crist to political supporters, staff, media and legislators — are expected to visit the mansion during this holiday season. Each one will be treated to a host of culinary delights that the 32-year-old Butler will whip up each day. The offerings are all hors d’oeuvres served buffet style in the formal dining room because it’s difficult to handle up to 300 guests at one time for a sit-down dinner.

Butler does all the shopping himself.

“I call myself the hunter and gatherer,” he jokes, adding that he buys as many items as he can at local farmers markets. “I try to spend the money with local and Florida-based companies, especially the little businesses.”

The menu is planned so that he can purchase items in bulk and use them for parties over several days. Then, when it comes time to cook, he calls on friends who come in part time to help prepare the goodies.

Menus include the standard cheese and vegetable trays as well as fruits, antipasto platters and homemade focaccia bread that he tops with whatever he finds of interest in one of the three refrigerators or the herb garden. There are cookies galore, plenty of Florida’s bounty from the sea — especially Gulf shrimp — and everyone saves room for Butler’s renowned miniature pecan pies.

Butler has been the mansion’s executive chef since October 1998, when, at the age of 21, he was hired by then-first lady Rhea Chiles. He served Jeb and Columba Bush and remained when Crist became governor. Butler has served such notables as presidents George H.W. Bush and George W. Bush (the latter when he was still Texas governor), University of Florida quarterback Tim Tebow, baseball greats Ken Griffey Jr. and Willie Mays, and former Vice President Dick Cheney.

Crist’s focus is on eating healthy, and Butler caters to his taste by finding local organically grown fresh vegetables, as well as roasting chicken, grilling shrimp and baking fish. But at times, the governor enjoys a steak thrown on the grill — tenderloin or T-bone, cooked medium to medium well and seared on the outside.

When Butler isn’t in the kitchen, where he works Monday through Friday, you might find him working on a project tied to the Governor’s Council on Physical Fitness.
“Our job is to come up with recommendations on how Floridians can live a healthier life,” he says of the council’s work. “It’s never too late to exercise and eat well.”

Butler himself will get a good workout over the next several weeks, between the Thanksgiving feast he coordinates and cooks for the governor and his staff and then planning and cooking for the hundreds of guests expected to share the holidays with Florida’s chief executive.

Butler doesn’t like to use recipes. “Most of the things I do are done by instinct,” he says. But he has agreed to share some of his favorite holiday dishes — perfect for the buffet table — with Tallahassee Magazine readers. So fire up that oven, enjoy the season and bon appetit! 

Florida Wild Shrimp with Grapefruit

 For the Dressing:

Slice four grapefruits in half and remove the pulp, leaving eight empty halves. These halves will serve as the bowls for the dish.

Carefully peel the remaining grapefruits, making sure not to leave any of the pith on them, then cut the sections and reserve in a bowl.

Chop the onion, celery and carrot and boil them in 2 quarts of water for about 10 minutes, along with the garlic cloves, black pepper, two lemons sliced in half with the skin, herbs and salt. Afterward, add the shrimp and allow them to boil in the broth for about six to 10 minutes, strain them, then cool them off in an ice bath and peel. Once peeled, season with a pinch of salt, add the juice of the remaining lemons and mix with the grapefruit sections.

Place the shrimp and grapefruit sections within the empty halves of the grapefruit.

Cover them with the dressing at serving time, taking care to make sure they are arranged nicely, and garnish with fresh cilantro.

Dressing:
Blend the cheese, cream and chipotle together, then fold in the chopped cilantro. If too thick, add a bit of lemon juice to thin it out. Season with salt and reserve at room temperature until ready to use.

Char-Grilled Oysters

Clarify the butter first, then add the remaining ingredients and warm. Do not boil this mixture.

Shuck oysters and place on the half shell on the grill. Ladle butter mixture on top of each oyster. The grill will flare up; as soon as the oysters start to curl on the edge after about five minutes, they are ready to eat. Serves 36.

Mulled Apple Cider with Rum

  
Pour apple cider into a small pot and place over medium heat. Measure mulling spices into a tea infuser. (Or cut a 2-by-2-inch square of cheesecloth, place spices in the middle, pull corners up around spices and tie closed with kitchen string to create a small satchel.) Place infuser or cheesecloth satchel into the cider and bring it to a simmer. Simmer gently for 20 minutes to infuse spices into the cider.

If using rum, pour 1½ ounces of rum into the bottom of each mug. Add 1 cup of mulled apple cider into the mug, stir with a cinnamon stick and serve.

Toffee Fudge Brownies

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 9-by-9-by-2-inch metal pan with foil, leaving overhang. Butter foil. Combine 1 cup chocolate chips, butter and 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate in heavy large saucepan. Stir over low heat until chocolates melt and mixture is smooth. Remove from heat. Whisk in sugar, then eggs and flour. Whisk in 1 cup toffee bits. Pour batter into prepared pan.

Bake brownies until tester inserted into center comes out with moist crumbs attached (about 45 minutes). Cool brownies 15 minutes. Using metal spatula, press down brownie edges to level top.

Bring cream to simmer in heavy small saucepan. Add remaining 1 cup chocolate chips and 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate; whisk topping until smooth. Pour topping over brownies in pan. Sprinkle with almonds and ¼ cup toffee bits. Chill brownies until cold, at least two hours and up to one day.

Using foil overhang as aid, lift brownies from pan. Fold down foil sides.

Cut into 16 squares and serve cold.

Focaccia Bread with Tomato, Rosemary and Havarti

In a small bowl, combine yeast, 1 teaspoon sugar and ¼ cup water heated to 115 degrees. Let mixture sit until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk together flour, the remaining sugar and salt in a large bowl; form a well in the center. Pour in yeast mixture, 1 tablespoon oil, minced rosemary and 1 cup warm water; mix into a stiff mass. Transfer dough to a floured work surface; knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Form dough into a ball and transfer to a bowl greased with 3 tablespoons oil; cover with plastic wrap and let rise until dough has about doubled in size, about 1½ hours.

Heat oven to 475 degrees. Rub bottom and sides of a 13-inch deep dish pizza pan, 12-inch cast-iron skillet or a round cake pan with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Transfer
dough to pan; flip to cover both sides in oil and flatten into the bottom of skillet with your fingertips. Cover skillet with a damp kitchen towel; set aside to let rise for one hour.

Gently create dimples in the bread with your fingertips so they cover the top, about an inch apart from each other.

Gently press tomatoes into dough and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Drizzle dough with remaining oil (3 tablespoons), then top with the cheese.

Creole Mustard and Herb Rubbed Beef Tenderloin

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

In a large skillet, heat oil over high heat until almost smoking. Season beef on all sides generously with salt and pepper and transfer meat to the skillet. Cook beef until well-browned on all sides, turning with tongs when necessary.

Transfer the beef to a cutting board or platter and, using a rubber spatula or spoon, rub all over with Creole mustard and garlic. Cover meat with chopped herbs, using your hands to evenly pat herbs into the mustard coating. Place prepared meat in a shallow roasting pan and cook about 20 to 25 minutes, or until meat registers 125 degrees on a meat thermometer for medium-rare. Remove meat from the oven and let it stand at least 10 minutes before slicing to serve.

Note: Meat may also be served at room temperature, and in this case should not be sliced until just before serving.

Horseradish Sauce:

In a bowl, combine all the ingredients and blend well. Adjust the seasoning, to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Gulf Coast Creole Style Barbecued Shrimp

Serves 8-10

Melt a stick of the butter in a skillet. Saute the garlic, onions, celery, parsley, rosemary and seasoning blend for about 2-3 minutes.

Melt the rest of the butter. Add the beer. Add the sautéed veggies, Worcestershire and lemon juice.

Drown the shrimp in the seasoned butter, using as many baking dishes as you need. Make sure the shrimp are more or less submerged. If they're not ... melt more butter and add to the sauce. Bake in a 350-degree oven until the shrimp turn pink, about 15 minutes.

Serve in big bowls. Put in a handful of shrimp and ladle lots of the spicy butter sauce over it.

Seafood Gumbo

Roux:

 
Gumbo:

To make the shrimp stock: Peel the shrimp, and toss the heads and shells into a large stock pot; refrigerate the peeled shrimp until ready to cook in the gumbo. Add the crab, onion, bay leaves, thyme, cayenne, Blackened Redfish and lemons to the pot. Cover with 2 1/2 quarts of cold water. Allow the liquid to slowly come to a boil, and then lower the heat. Gently simmer for 45 minutes, uncovered, skimming any foam that rises to the top. Strain the stock into a heatproof container or another pot to remove the chunky solids; at this point you should have about 2 quarts of flavorful broth to use in the gumbo. Cool until needed.

To make the gumbo, you must start with a roux base: Melt the oil over medium-low heat in a Dutch oven or other large, heavy pot. Just as the oil smokes a little, add the flour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or whisk to prevent lumps - it may lock-up like cake frosting but just keep stirring through it. Cook the roux until it’s the color of a walnut and smells equally as nutty, this should take about 15 minutes. (If you make a larger batch of roux, use a Dutch oven with a heavy lid, start it on the stove and finish it in a 425 degree oven covered for about 45 minutes or until dark brown. Indirect oven heat helps keep it from burning. Be careful – they don’t call roux “Cajun Napalm” for nothing. It will take off skin if it touches you. Once the roux comes out of the oven, let it completely cool. The roux can be made a day in advance.

In a large pot, sauté the onions, celery, bell pepper, and garlic with a little oil; season with salt, cayenne and Blackened Redfish seasoning. Stir in the tomatoes, bay leaves and thyme. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until the vegetables are soft. Pour in the cooled shrimp stock and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil, add the roux, whisk to incorporate and then reduce the heat. Simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gumbo is dark and thick. Toss in the sausage and cook for 15 minutes then the shrimp, oysters, and okra (if it doesn’t have okra, it isn’t gumbo!). Cook about another 15 minutes; adjust seasoning.

To serve: Ladle the gumbo into shallow bowls and pile some rice in the center. Sprinkle the parsley and green onions over the top. Pass the French bread and hot sauce at the table.

Scalloped Oysters

Start with a porcelain baking dish.

Drain the oysters in a colander; strain the liquor to remove all pieces of shell and save it.

Season the oysters with cayenne, salt, mace, cloves, thyme, parsley and bay leaf, chopped very fine.

Butter the baking dish and place in a layer of oysters.

Place over the oysters a layer of breadcrumbs, about a half-inch thick. Place little bits of butter here and there and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Add another layer of seasoned oysters, and then another layer of breadcrumbs, keep layering until the dish is full.

Then mix the cream and oyster liquor and pour over the dish.

Sprinkle the last layer with breadcrumbs and dot gently with bits of butter.

Place in a 400-degree oven and bake for about 15-20 minutes, or until nicely browned.

Key Lime Pie with Gingersnap Crust Serves 8-10 

Crust

Filling

Topping

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, with a rack in the middle.

In a medium bowl, mix together gingersnap crumbs, sugar and melted butter. Stir with a fork until ingredients are well combined. Press mixture evenly into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie plate.

Place piecrust into the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Remove pie plate from the oven and let the crust cool on a rack while you make the filling. (Leave the oven turned on.)

In a medium bowl, whisk together the condensed milk and egg yolks until well combined. Add in the key lime juice and whisk until the ingredients are mixed and slightly thickened.

Pour the mix into the crust and return the pie to the oven. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove pie from oven and allow it to cool completely (the filling will firm up when cool). Cover the cooled pie and chill in the fridge for at least 8 hours or overnight.

Prior to serving the pie, whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form using an electric mixer or a whisk (and a lot of elbow grease!).

Cut the pie into slices and serve each slice topped with a dollop of whipped cream.

Hummingbird Cake

Cake:

 
Icing:

To make the cake, position racks in the center and bottom third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Lightly butter two 9-inch round cake pans, sprinkle evenly with flour and tap out the excess.

Sift the flour, sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt into a bowl. In another bowl, sift or whisk the bananas, pineapple, oil, eggs, and vanilla, until combined. Do not use an electric mixer. Pour into the dry mixture and fold together with a large spatula just until smooth. Do not beat. Fold in pecans. Spread evenly in the pans.

Bake until the cakes spring back when pressed in the center, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the cakes to wire racks and cool for 10 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the racks. Turn right side up and cool completely.

To make the icing, using an electric mixer on high speed, beat the cream cheese and butter in a large bowl until combined. On low speed, gradually beat in the sugar, then the vanilla to make a smooth icing.

Place one cake layer upside down on a serving platter. Spread with about 2/3 cup of the icing. Top with the second layer, right side up. Spread the remaining icing over the top and sides of the cake. (The cake can be prepared up to one day ahead and stored, uncovered, in the refrigerator.)

Let stand at room temperature for one hour before serving. Just before serving, decorate the top with candied kumquats or edible flowers such as roses, nasturuiums or pansies. Make sure to use pesticide-free, fresh-from-the-garden flowers.

Chocolate Chip Cookies with Coconut

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In a bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda and salt. In another bowl, cream butter and sugars with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition and beat in flour mixture. Beat in vanilla and stir in coconut and chocolate chips.

Drop dough by level tablespoons 2 inches apart onto buttered baking sheets and bake cookies in middle of oven 10 minutes, or until golden. Cool cookies on baking sheet one minute and transfer to racks to cool completely.

Cookies keep fresh in airtight containers for five days.

Oatmeal Cookies with Raisins, Dates and Pecans

 
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with foil; butter foil. Blend first five ingredients in medium bowl.

Using an electric mixer, beat butter, vegetable shortening and both sugars in large bowl until fluffy. Beat in honey, eggs and vanilla. Gradually beat in flour mixture. Stir in oats, raisins, dates and pecans. Drop batter by tablespoonfuls onto prepared sheets, spacing mounds 2 inches apart. Flatten cookies slightly.

Bake cookies until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Cool completely on sheets. (Can be made two days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.)

Makes about 4 dozen.